How to Fix a Door That Won’t Close Properly
A door that won’t close properly is usually one of three things in a UK home: hinges that have dropped, a swollen frame after damp weather, or a latch that no longer lines up. You may notice it rubbing the floor, bouncing back open, or needing a shove to catch.
This guide will help you work out the real cause and fix it without overcomplicating the job. It normally takes 30 minutes to 2 hours, and it is ideal for DIY beginners who are happy to use a screwdriver, plane or chisel carefully.
What You’ll Need
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Step-by-Step Guide
Step 1: Find where the door is rubbing
Close the door slowly and look for the exact point where it catches, because the fix depends on whether the issue is at the top, side or bottom edge. Many beginners assume the latch is the problem when the real issue is sagging or swelling timber.
Use a pencil to mark the rubbing area lightly on the door edge or frame. That mark gives you a clear target and helps you remove only the amount of material needed.
Step 2: Tighten the hinges
Check all hinge screws and tighten any that are loose, especially the top hinge on a door that has dropped. Loose screws let the door sag, which makes the latch miss the keep and causes scraping on the frame or floor.
If the existing screws keep spinning, replace one or two with longer screws that bite deeper into the stud or door lining. That is often enough to pull the door back into alignment without more drastic repairs.
Step 3: Realign the latch and keep
If the door reaches the frame but won’t latch, examine the strike plate and see whether the latch is hitting above or below the hole. A misaligned keep is a common cause after years of movement in the hinges or frame.
Loosen the plate and move it slightly, then test the door again before tightening fully. Small adjustments matter here, and moving the plate too far can create a new problem with an even worse fit.
Step 4: Plane swollen or tight edges
If the door still catches on the frame, remove it from the hinges and plane a small amount from the marked edge. This is often needed in bathrooms or older houses where seasonal moisture makes timber swell and shrink through the year.
Take off only a little at a time and refit the door often. Over-planing is the classic mistake, and once too much timber is removed the door may rattle, look uneven or fail to latch properly.
Step 5: Repair damaged hinge or latch areas
If screw holes are stripped or the hinge recess is damaged, fill the holes with repair epoxy or suitable wood filler and allow it to cure before refitting. Damaged fixing points let the hinge move again, so the problem will keep coming back if you ignore them.
On older doors, you may also need to pack out a hinge recess slightly to correct the alignment. It is a small adjustment that can make a big difference to how the door closes.
Step 6: Test the close and make final adjustments
Open and close the door several times, checking that it latches cleanly without scraping. A correctly fixed door should shut with light pressure and stay closed without needing to be slammed.
If it still drags, go back to the marked rubbing area and make a very small adjustment rather than trying to solve everything at once. The aim is a neat, even gap all round and a smooth close every time.
- Use a pencil to shade the edge of the door lightly, then close it to see exactly where the paint transfers and where to remove material
- A long screw in the top hinge often fixes a sagging door faster than planing the whole edge
- If the door sticks more in damp weather, leave a tiny extra clearance at the tight edge so it still works in winter
- Planing the wrong edge because the door seemed to catch near the latch when the real issue was the top hinge dropping
- Forcing the latch with a screwdriver, which damages the strike plate and makes the door feel worse rather than better
If you remove the door from its hinges, take care because internal doors can be awkward and heavier than they look. Work with the door supported so it does not fall, pinch fingers or damage flooring. If the frame appears rotten, badly cracked or load-bearing trim is moving, stop and assess whether a more serious repair is needed.
Final Thoughts
Once the hinges are tight, the latch lines up and the door closes without scraping, you have a proper fix rather than a temporary shove-and-hope solution. The best sign is an even gap around the frame and a door that catches cleanly on the first try. If the frame is badly warped or rotten, bring in a carpenter before the problem spreads.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my door keep sticking when the weather changes?
Timber expands in damp conditions and contracts when it dries out, so doors in older UK homes often stick seasonally. A small amount of planing or hinge adjustment usually solves it.
Should I plane the door or adjust the hinges first?
Always check and tighten the hinges first, because a sagging door is easier to correct that way. Only plane the edge if the alignment is still wrong after the hinges are sorted.
